R32 set up info

[Bob Naylor]

I have a ( I believe '04) R32 HMO # 148ch08 I've been told it is like the same chassis that Alan Suito used but is the shifter chassis that was difficult to tune. I will be using it for the stock 125 shifter class and was wondering if there are any tricks to this chassis? We are using MG red tires and the class weight is 385. I may also run the 405 class. I bought this chassis to run in rotax but decided to run stock shifter.
Thanks

[Garry Lobaugh]

If it is a front brake kart then it is a CR32, correct?

[Bob Naylor]

It only has R32 on the placard that has the homologation number on the frame rail in the back. It has front brakes.

[Garry Lobaugh]

Take a look over on the bearing hanger by the rear brake system. It should have the serial number and the model.

R32 implies non front brake application..CR should be on this plate. The difference will be in the spindle choices.. Ten degree needed to make a shifter work and 12 for the most two cycles. If one has taken an R32 and converted to a shifter with front brakes, it will take a fair amount of work to get the front end set correct.

[DW]

Garry,

We currantly use a 2006 cr32 with front brakes in the Rotax series,
after reading your post on spindel choices, do we need the 10 or 12 degree
option?
Maybe the front end is set too agressive for Rotax with YHC tires.
Your comment please........

David

[Garry Lobaugh]

a CR will only accept 10 degree.. that is the point of the discussion. I'll ask one of the dealers who does have this experience to come on board and comment.

[DW]

Garry,

Is the the 2006 m32 with front brakes at 10 degree's as well?

Thanks,

David

[Andy Seesemann]

Yes, David.

All "C" chassis (front brakes installed) have spindles with the 10deg camber angle.

A

[Bob Naylor]

My chassis number you were lookin for garry is CR32SP sn414184

[Chris Lobaugh]

So it is a CR32 which has a 10 degree front end...whew. I would start with a fairly basic front end set up which would be .5 degree caster in, spindles down, five lines out, 2mm toe out, and try to get the camber as close to straight up as possible within 3mm is good. I consider the red a fairly hard tire and we have had better luck running a bit softer on the rear (D2.0 or B) axle, test the side rail expecially if the track has long right hand turns, more than likely you will not run it. If the kart has way too much on the front try raising the spindles first, then take the caster out. We ran the seats failry far back on those chassis to the tune of 64 cm from the front rail to the front edge of the seat on the left side and had the back at 22.5 cm from the top of the axle to the top of the back of the seat, 5mm below the frame rail. If the track made a bunch of grip over the course of the weekend it was fairily standard practice to raise the axle and drop the back of the kart. Are you using a ribtect seat? I'm not sure how they campare on the tape measure, but, those numbers were with a Freeline seat. Hope this helps.