Monza and MG Yellow Setup

[Shannon Schmidt]

I was hoping someone could give me a few pointers in terms of a baseline set-up for the SKUSA Supernats for a Monza Z32 on MG Yellows. I will be racing in TaG Masters (400lbs) and leasing a Leopard engine. Having never run Yellows or a Leopard, any help is appreciated. Here are a few details about my current set-up:

1. 4 degrees positive camber
2. Freeline front hubs, front bar in
3. 3 spacers wide (from inside of spindle)
4. Side rail out
5. Tillet 1/4 pad seat
6. 1-2 seat struts, both sides
7. Shockwave soft 50mm axle (have a Freeline F and M)
8. Short hubs
9. Loose rear bumper
10. I am 185 pounds, so I have to put 35 pounds on the kart to make 400.
11. Freeline mag wheels and Douglas Mag wheels.

Thanks for any help!!

[Chris Lobaugh]

The track will be very slippery to begin with so start with your soft axle...by qualifying you should probably have your F in and depending on how the weather is you might go to the M. One seat stay each side is fine to start with, but, I would have 2 on for the final practice session...again it depends on how the track comes around. The rear bumper should always be tight, but, the rear crash bar should be loose...unless that is what you meant. Short hubs are fine, side rail out is good, I would stick with the Freeline wheels for the race. 3 spacers wide with the front bar in might be too much to start with when the track is very slippery. I would start with the front bar out and 2 thick spacers wide. 4mm positive camber is okay...4 degrees is way too much (4 degrees equates to about 28mm). If you are using the sniper lazer alignment tool one square equals 2mm and one dot equals 1mm. Hope this helps.

[Shannon Schmidt]

Chris..thanks for the reply. Very helpful information. Just a few more questions if you don't mind.

1. Regarding the rear axle, I would assume if the weather gets hot, then go to the M axe? Cooler weather, softer axle? Am I safe to assume you have found that over gripping the kart seems to be the way to go, not the traditional go soft when it gets sticky approach?
2.I read Marc's post about his RMAX Nats setup, regarding the M axle, I assmue 1000 means 1000 mm? If so, what is the advantage of cutting a 1040 axle to 1000?
3. Marc's seat was listed as a Tillet T11, mine is a T8, should I look for an 11 or should I just loosen the side seat posts?
4. Any hints on air pressure?

[Chris Lobaugh]

1. When the weather is hot and the track is sticky going softer only makes a tight kart even tighter. With a standard axle (f) as the track begins to pick up a lot of rubber the inside rear tire will release and then set back down too quickly which will cause the rear of the kart to either hop, or, push the front. If you go to a softer axle (D or B) the problem becomes much worse, but, if you go to a hard axle (M) the inside rear tire will release and stay up until you either get back to the throttle or "open" the steering wheel. This phenomenon only occurs when you brake in a straight line and then "close" the steering wheel with no pedal input.

2. Yes...1000mm. Replacing the 1040 axle with a 1000 or cutting the axle will help free the kart up...it allows the hub to deflect on the end of the axle much easier. When the F axle is not enough and the M axle is too much we cut the end of the axle or replace with a shorter axle.

3. The T11 is a much harder seat than the T8 so you would actually add stiffeners to the side of the seat or add seat struts if you want to mimic the characteristics of a T11.

4. Start between 10 and 12...12 if it is as cold as I think it will be. Run this for the first few sessions depending on how the track comes around. Check your tire pressures hot and if they are building more than 3 psi over the course of the run you need to drop your cold tire pressures. By the time the race comes around I'm sure that we will be pretty standard on our pressures 12.5-13 psi HOT tire pressure.
Hope this helps.