Brakes Suck

[Colin McGinnis]

I have a mid '90's Birel AR1 and found a leak in one master cylinder so we purchased a new one and at first it work perfect but then a couple races roll by and it dies. I press the breaks at the end of a run (Heat, Main) and the peddle dropped about an inch. I get off the track and look in the master cylinder and the fluid is about out. I have bleed the breaks several times a race and sometimes it works other times it is even worst.

My cylinder was purchased in March or April of this year (2004). At this time I have found that I have to pump the peddle everytime a put fluid in just to get it solid. I like the break at a spot were I touch the peddle and my kart starts to stop. I don't like pushing the peddle all the way to the nose cone.

Can someone help me out???

[Garry Lobaugh]

suggest you send the complete system in for our technical department to review. It is very difficult to make suggestions without having the product in hand. garry

[Garry Lobaugh]

suggest you send the complete system in for our technical department to review. It is very difficult to make suggestions without having the product in hand. garry

[Sam Cooper]

Collin,
Brake problems can be frustrating and cause a person to overlook the obvious... You mentioned replacing (1) of the master cylinders, are your problems with the front or rear brakes?
Have you noticed any leaks at the calipers - fittings, bleed screws or behind brake pads?
I have also seen cracks in the brake line fittings cause this same problem - the cracks are very hard to see unless you take the line off and look at it in good lighting.

There is a rebuild kit available for the front and rear calipers, I think the part number for the rear is 10.1734.00 (under $20.00) and the front would be 10.1735.00 (under $10.00) - The kits have just about every part less the pistons and they are under $10.00. Brake lines are also available for under $25.00.
Its a good idea to have a couple of these kits in your tool box - you never know when you will need at least one of the parts from the kit when your in a pinch - and the kits even have the safety "C" clips included!

Concerning you brakes - I would check the brake lines and clean the brake system, make sure to dry everything off with a clean rag. Then bleed the system and check for leaks. Take a zip tie and wrap it around the bumper and the pedal to apply pressure (simulate braking) on the pedal and leave it for a few minutes. With pressure still applied to the pedal, take a clean dry rag and wipe around the areas where fluid could escape - If you have a leak in the system, you should be able to find it this way...

Hope this helps...

Sam Cooper
Speedwerx Motorsports U.S.A.

[Colin McGinnis #54]

Sorry but I can't remember what e-mail account I had when I first Registered and so I have been unable to reply. I made a new name but it is still the same Colin McGinnis that originally posted this thread.

This same problem came up on my dads kart (different chassis) and it ended up being a leaking caliper. I took the time the next day to clean the entire break system and the area surrounding it. I then flushed out the existing fluid and put in some new (label says it is better than DOT 3 and 4 but is made of the same material) Castrol brand break fluid and from then (3 months ago) on my breaks have been the best ever. My problem was with the dirt the surrounded the break system and the fluid in the lines.

Thank you for your support and good luck.

Colin McGinnis
HPV 3 Sr. #54
Racing 4 A Cure

[Colin McGinnis #54]

One more thing.

I also learned that the breaks don't work in the air.

I flipped my kart in September at Moran Raceway and my dad has always been making fun of me. He said before the day had started I need to do my best and don't try anything stupid but it didn't work and now when ever I talk about my flip he tells people I was testing to see how the breaks work in the air. Well they don't work in the air.

Colin McGinnis
HPV 3 Sr. #54
Racing 4 A Cure